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    Username Post: Strop Comparisons        (Topic#889440)
    Idiotking
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-06-10 03:39.28 - Post#2247933    



    The results were a little surprising.






     


    Marko Tsourkan
    Master Member KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 03:46.46 - Post#2247937    


        In response to Idiotking

    If you were to pick only one, would it be Split Leather with Diamond Spray? From you video, it looked like it gave a knife the best edge.
    I love fools’ experiments. I am always making them. C.Darwin

    Join Me on Facebook

    www.markotsourkan.com


     
    Idiotking
    Master Member KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 03:52.13 - Post#2247941    


        In response to Marko Tsourkan

    easily






     
    tk59
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-06-10 04:44.59 - Post#2247962    


        In response to Idiotking

    Thanks, Scott! What knife/steel is that you used? Also, what particle sizes did you use?

    Edited by tk59 on 12-06-10 04:48.43. Reason for edit: No reason given.
     
    Idiotking
    Master Member KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 06:00.52 - Post#2247991    


        In response to tk59

    Watanabe, I thinks it's blue. Boron 1.0 micron, CO .5, diamond.25. The split leather is course so I was surprised it did so well.






     
    cbwx34
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-06-10 06:08.22 - Post#2247994    


        In response to Idiotking

    Could you provide the details of the test, like what you did between strops? I'm just wondering if it was possible that the edge was just getting further refined between tests, and whether or not what you used had that big a part of it.

    cbw
     
    Aphex
    Journeyman KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 06:27.11 - Post#2248006    


        In response to cbwx34

    Is split leather essentially just the other, non smooth side of the leather?
     
    tk59
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-06-10 06:38.36 - Post#2248015    


        In response to Aphex

    I seem to get the best edges from using the flesh side leather. I think Keith mentioned split leather is actually one of the inner layers of the leather. It is neither the outside (smooth) or flesh side (soft and uneven).
     
    Idiotking
    Master Member KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 06:39.54 - Post#2248016    


        In response to Aphex

    The knife was fully sharpened prior. Between each test I stropped it 4 times on each side with my finest stone then proceeded to strop on the various surfaces making sure to go four times on each side each time. They are in the order I did them except the unstropped edge was really third. So the repetition of stropping didn't improve the base edge over time.






     
    Aphex
    Journeyman KnifeNut!
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    12-06-10 06:57.29 - Post#2248029    


        In response to Aphex

    Just got PM'd an explanation from Keith of Handamerican about what split leather is.

    Bark tanned bovine can be very thick, For most typical uses the method used to reduce hide thickness is referred to as splitting. Splitting is usually done with the intention of leaving the grain or epidermis intact. The equipment used to to split the hide is designed so that the material is fed and guided horizontally through a series of rollers and knives with the objective of literally slicing the hide in order to achieve a desired top grain thickness.


    The end result is a full/top grain leather in the desired thickness and a non grain split or waste side. The top grain can be further processed and used for any number of things, Waste/split leather is often used to create suede though it has other uses. When splitting leather to be used for honing purposes the objective is a bit different. The three layers of skin common in mammals is the subcutaneous layer, the dermis, and the epidermis.


    What were looking for is to reveal the dermal papillae which are tiny finger like projections that connect the dermis to the epidermis. Bark tanning makes these projections extremely hard in their own right and while they will affect blade steel are also perfect for suspending dry, paste, and water based compounds.


    There are two ways of exposing the dermal papillae. Splitting off approximately 1 mm from the grain side will usually reveal the projections and leave a thicker leather depending on what thickness you started with. You can also split from the flesh side removing most of the subcutaneous layer until you reach the dermal papillae. Of course this will leave you with a thin leather.


    When using compounds on split leather a light scraping with a cabinet scraper from time to time will maintain the cats tongue feel of the hide which could last for years depending on use.

    Keith DeGrau
     


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