Please forgive replying to such an old post. This is my first visit here after registering. I have some info on using an Edge Pro that some may like. I've already posted it on the Spyderco forum but there seems to be EP interest here as well.
I made blocks to help hold the blade in one position when sharpening a knife that is small enough to sharpen without sliding the blade along the EP blade table. The blocks will keep the blade from pivoting back and forth when the spine is not flat enough to rest against the edge guide without pivoting.
USING EDGE GUIDE BLOCK FOR EDGE PRO SHARPENER
1. You can see how a knife blade will pivot back and forth on a part of the spine depending on the shape of the blade spine. (pictures 1 thru 3) I pictured the pivot way too much just to illustrate the pivot movement. If this pivoting occurs during the sharpening process it could result in the stone hitting the edge of the knife just a little bit different from stroke to stroke. The goal is to have the stone hit the edge exactly the same on every stroke. Since the human being (and me in particular) is prone to error I created what I call “Edge Guide Blocks” (EGB) for my Edge Pro (EP). They should hold the knife blade in the same position all the time. I only use these for blades short enough that you don’t need to slide the blade along the sharpener. I’d say 4” or less blade length.
2. This is a picture of EGBs for a few knives. (picture 5) Notice the “legs” that fit around the edge guide on the EP. These keep the block from sliding back and forth on the sharpener.
3. Here is a picture of the EGB on the EP with my knife. (picture 4) To sharpen the other side of the blade flip the knife AND EGB. I removed the white plastic piece on the guide so it would be easier to see I hope. Once you put the block on the EP you need to readjust the guide so the edge is in the right position on the blade table on the EP. Flip the EGB with the knife when sharpening opposite sides.
Keep in mind that when the edge of the knife is moved further from or closer to the very edge of the blade table on the EP it changes the angle slightly that the stone will hit the edge of the blade. This change is very slight but it can be easier to picture it in your mind by thinking of moving the blade all the way down to the bottom of the table. The angle per side would be almost 90 degrees per side. So if you have your knife on the blade table with the edge ¼” off the sharpener you will be hitting the edge at a certain angle. If you then move the blade down the table so the blade edge is right at the end of the table the stone will be hitting the edge at slightly a higher angle. I don't know if it makes enough of a difference to matter. I haven’t done it yet but I’m going to find out just how big a difference it would make. This moving closer and farther away can occur when not using an EGB. With the knife pictured the tip could move further from or closer to the edge of the blade table.
Questions? Please ask. I pasted this message and pictures from the Spyderco forum so there may be some confusion with the text referencing the pictures, etc.
TO MAKE AN EDGE GUIDE BLOCK
Place the material you are going to make a block out of under the edge guide and tighten it down. The material is a square or rectangle at this point.
Mark the outline of the edge guide on the material.
Then place the knife on top of the material so the blade edge is positioned parallel with the end of the blade table (or however you want it positioned when you sharpen it). Draw the outline of the blade spine on the material.
Remove the material from the EP and cut out what was under the edge guide and what was under the knife blade.
NOTE: Paint stirrers work well because the wood is soft enough to cut out easily and strong enough to hold the blade in place during sharpening. The blocks in my pictures are made out of vinyl siding I had left over after siding our house.
One thing I didn't mention is the thickness of the blocks. The thickest they need to be is the thickness of the blade at the spine. I have lots of extra vinyl siding left over from when I vinyl sided my house and that stuff works great. It is as thin as a thin blade and if I need a block to be thicker I glue 2 or 3 pieces together before I cut the shape. If the block is too thick and you are trying to get really low angles on your edge the stone may hit the block especially right at the tip of the blade. Just cut the block away from the tip far enough that the stone doesn't hit it but leave enough to create a solid base for the blade. In the pictures I posted notice how the block is cut away from the tip of the blade on the Delica I used in the pictures.
This post on page 32 of this thread never got much attention. To see the pictures you need to click here
. Anyone use something similar?
I would also like to hear if there are smart solutions to steady a blade with few wide areas. I have one blade where both the side plane and the hollow grind bevel is quite narrow, neither is really good to rest the blade on the table. Suggestions? There was one mentioning in here (that I noticed yesterday while reading through all 60 pages...) of using toothpicks. Whats your solution?
Edited by Dieter01 on 02-07-12 00:14.32. Reason for edit: No reason given.