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    Username Post: Scandi edge vs convex edge        (Topic#840100)
    Deer Hunter
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-25-08 06:59.55 - Post#1719275    



    Hey Guys,

    I know some of you have convex the edge of your scandi’s, which do you like the best.

    If you had one knife on a backpacking and hunting trip, would you keep the scandi edge or convex edge?

    Thanks,

    Geoff
     


    tstetz
    The Puukko Prophet
    *
    12-25-08 07:37.09 - Post#1719290    


        In response to Deer Hunter

    Geoff, a lot of Scandi's just end up with a bit of a natural convex over time. I don't deliberately convex my Scandi's, but from hand sharpening it isn't uncommon that you end with the edge being a bit convexed anyway.

    So my answer as to which I'd use is: yes
    There are some who call me... Tim.

    www.woodsmonkey.com


     
    TrekWalker
    JOTY
    *
    12-25-08 22:17.07 - Post#1719583    


        In response to tstetz

    • tstetz Said:
    Geoff, a lot of Scandi's just end up with a bit of a natural convex over time. I don't deliberately convex my Scandi's, but from hand sharpening it isn't uncommon that you end with the edge being a bit convexed anyway.

    So my answer as to which I'd use is: yes


    Please excuse my ignorance but I keep hearing this and it puzzles the heck out of me.

    If I understand edge geometry correctly, sharpening could not result in a convex edge no matter how slight (unless it's microscopic).

    A scandi grind is a continuous bevel down a large portion of the blade (ie; vertically and extending past the tip). To develop a convex edge one would either have to remove a large portion of the blade or have a blade w/a ridiculously short bevel to begin with.

    E.g. I own one small mora. About a quarter of the blade is beveled. The blade being rather thin to begin with (like other scandis i've seen) if I were to try to convex the edge i'd probably lose almost a third of the width!

    Please educate me. This sort of stuff keeps me up at night. <chuckle>

    Peace,

    Richard.


     
    ssj
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 03:46.24 - Post#1719663    


        In response to TrekWalker

    Trekwalker-
    I think that most of us talk in a bit of code that needs to clarified from time to time. Usually, when we are discussing a convex edge on a scandi, we are referring to a convexed secondary bevel. The primary bevel on the scandi is as you describe
     
    ssj
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 04:14.55 - Post#1719680    


        In response to TrekWalker

    To finish my statement: If you removed a lot of metal as you described, you would have a convexed "blade" and not a convexed "edge." I added a bit to this statement but ran out of time to edit and so lost it. Right now, I don't have the patience to recreate the whole thing and my wife is asking me if I have finished yet. So, I"m off.
    Steve
     
    PWork
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 04:40.26 - Post#1719695    


        In response to ssj

    You can have a flat grind with a convex edge, or a convex grind with a flat edge. It's all in how the edge is applied to the knife.
    In turn you can have either a flat or convex grind zero ground to sharp.

    IMO, people tend to over think these things. As long as the edge is sharp, it makes little difference.

    As always, YMMV.
    Paul



     
    hollowdweller
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 05:15.47 - Post#1719710    


        In response to Deer Hunter

    I think that how fine the edge is is more important then the type of grind.

    Of course if you get it too fine, scandi, convex or flat the edge can chip or roll. If you get it too steep it won't cut as efficiently.

    I think Scandi and Convex seem to be in favor more lately it seems due to the fact that scandis and convex, especially the way Bark River Does them, results in a really fine edge which cuts really efficiently.
    WTF?


     
    Deer Hunter
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 05:19.19 - Post#1719713    


        In response to PWork

    Hey Guys,

    I have actually taken a file, mouse pad with different grit sand paper and diamond stones to make a convex blade on a #1 and Frosts Clipper.

    The scadi bevel is gone. The edge is very thin and strong. It's easy to sharpen and since the work is done by hand, the blade temper remains. The process takes about ½ hour with no breaks.

    They cut like crazy and the edge does not roll because of the edge geometry.

    I think some others here have also done this and I just wanted to see what they preferred after testing the knives?

    Geoff
     
    Ragweed
    Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 05:50.42 - Post#1719723    


        In response to Deer Hunter

    Hi,

    I think both can be good. But each will be optimal
    for slightly different purposes. Other factors being
    equal, the convex edge will last a bit longer,
    and make deep cuts with a bit less effort. The
    Scandi will be a bit keener and is significantly
    easier to control when making shallow cuts, such
    as when carving wood.
    Here's four knives I started using 5 or 10 years
    ago. The top two are non-laminated carbon Eriksson,
    one with a scandi and one with a convex.
    The bottom two are shorter laminated carbon Frosts.
    Again, one has a scandi and one a convex
    grind. I find the convex to work better in the
    packing room where I'm cutting cardboard constantly.
    The scandi work better for wood carving, and are easier
    to sharpen properly in the field.
    The convex blades are now much thinner than the
    scandi, but this is a function of a lot more use.
    When I first re-profiled them there wasn't much
    loss of blade width. I spend a lot more time in
    the packing room than carving wood these days.
    The Mora I carry in the field has a scandi bevel.
    As Hollowdweller says, It's important
    to match the final angle to the hardness of the
    steel and intended purpose. And as mentioned
    by Paul, you can have a slight secondary of either
    style. Again, the advantage of a convex secondary is
    less resistance, while a flat secondary is easier to maintain
    in the field. .
    Personally I feel the less secondary the better, unless the
    primary angle is too delicate for the steel and purpose at hand.
    The big difference for the casual user is that
    it’s a lot easier to learn how to sharpen a Scandi bevel.

    Best regards,
    R
    "A knifeless man is a lifeless man."
    -Old Nordic Proverb


     
    Deer Hunter
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    12-26-08 06:32.20 - Post#1719741    


        In response to Ragweed

    Hey Ragweed,

    I agree. Wow, you really hold on to your knives long and get the use out of them. Anyone who says these scadi knives don't hold up is crazy.

    When I convex the blade it keeps the same blade shape. I just remove enough steel to remove the primary grind and get a thin high convex form.

    For skinning and processing a deer or other large game, do you like the scandi grind or the convex?

    Geoff
     


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