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     Page 6 of 23 « First<6789>» Last
    Username Post: a good start        (Topic#837533)
    apicius9
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 13:40.52 - Post#1951273    


        In response to watercrawl

    Very nice - but I will say that about anything koa I like the personalized shape you gave it. Just curious, what did you use to glue the scales?

    Stefan
    "Man should practice moderation in all things, including moderation." Mark Twain


     


    RRLOVER
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 13:45.22 - Post#1951277    


        In response to apicius9

    Devcon epoxy.I hope it holds.I am having trouble finding drillbits for mosaic pins,i wanted to pin it.


     
    apicius9
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 13:57.11 - Post#1951283    


        In response to RRLOVER

    I think I got mine here http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/c... - don't remember 100% what the sizes were, I think it was #12 for 3/16" and F for 1/4"? Adam may know that better.

    The surface is so large that I would expect the handles to hold. I have really started spending much more time on surface preparation before gluing, so roughing the surface with 36 or 60 grit sandpaper is helpful, cleaning with acetone etc. is essential, and for a full tang knife, I would try to drill a few holes into the tang to get some epoxy bridges between the scales. Not sure how the pins will work when both scales are on. Again, that's Adam's world

    Stefan
    "Man should practice moderation in all things, including moderation." Mark Twain


     
    RRLOVER
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 14:09.37 - Post#1951298    


        In response to apicius9

    I roughed the tang up with a file,60 grit on the back of the koa,and there is three 1/4" holes.I used denatured alcohol instead of acetone.


     
    watercrawl
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 14:31.09 - Post#1951324    


        In response to RRLOVER

    First, I just realized I have both #11 and #12 bits that I've used for 3/16" pins. I guess either will work.

    Second, I wouldn't try drilling the pins now. More than likely the drilling will make the tang hot and the epoxy bond will break....ask me how I know that one.

    Cleaning & roughing the tang is an essential step.
    Adam

    www.marrknives.com

    Marr Knives on FB



     
    RRLOVER
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-05-09 14:44.40 - Post#1951336    


        In response to watercrawl

    I was not going to try an pin the cleaver after it was done.I want to do my TKC and shigi,those definitly need pins.I don't think those two knives would look good without them.


     
    RRLOVER
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-12-09 10:58.14 - Post#1955862    


        In response to RRLOVER

    Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Well maybe a shigi and desert ironwood might have not been the beast choice for my first gyuto rehandle,but here it is.I can only get better


     
    apicius9
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-12-09 11:07.32 - Post#1955874    


        In response to RRLOVER

    Nice, you are clearly ahead of me on this one. Did you reshape the handle or is that the original outline of the tang? You picked a hard (pun intended) wood for your first handle, great work!

    Stefan
    "Man should practice moderation in all things, including moderation." Mark Twain


     
    RRLOVER
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-12-09 11:10.48 - Post#1955879    


        In response to apicius9

    Thanx stefan.Since the knife is so $$$$$$ i kept the original shape best as possible.


     
    watercrawl
    Master Member KnifeNut!
    *
    10-12-09 14:52.08 - Post#1956030    


        In response to RRLOVER

    Nice!!

    The Shigefusa western handled gyuto's have a very shaped handle...yes?

    I've not done mine yet. I have the wood...just not the balls yet.
    Adam

    www.marrknives.com

    Marr Knives on FB



     


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